Chef Masaki Sugisaki - The London Chef Who Wants Us To Embrace Every Part Of The Fish

Chef Masaki Sugisaki is spearheading a movement for sustainability in London’s seafood sector through his ‘Gill To Tail’ dinners, which utilize every part of the fish, in a series of collaborations with famous chefs.

What are your sentiments regarding this year's round of Gill To Tail dinners?

I am somewhat pleased that this event is taking form from the previous year. We have been diligently addressing them; the feedback from last year was exceptional.

It clearly emphasizes the importance of consuming fish in a more sustainable manner. What served as the initial inspiration for the dinners?

The fundamental principle of Japanese cuisine is to minimize waste, particularly regarding seafood, as it acknowledges the necessity of consuming living beings for sustenance. Prior to each meal, we express a sentiment that essentially conveys: 'gratitude for your existence.'

I commenced employment at the age of 15 in my parents' kitchen, where the initial task each morning was inspecting the bins to ascertain whether we were discarding useable components. If they discovered anything, we would undoubtedly be in significant trouble for the entire day! For me, this is a quite instinctive matter.

I have been in London for 20 years, during which I saw that many individuals consume significantly less fish than beef. I began to recognize the significant amount of waste generated here, with edible portions discarded, which was rather startling.

What is your rationale for this perspective?

I believe several factors contribute to this situation, but I contend that much of the fish available here is not particularly fresh. I began to explore direct sourcing options. During my discussions with fishermen regarding their methods and catches, I frequently encountered information indicating that a significant portion of their haul was being shipped to France or Portugal. Occasionally, it is re-imported to London.

This, in turn, affects the earnings of a fisherman due to the presence of numerous intermediaries. They sell each species at £4 per kilo, but in restaurants, the price escalates to almost £20 per kilo due to intermediaries. Fish must be fresh, and its freshness diminishes during exportation and subsequent re-importation, resulting in it being at least four or five days old.

What actions should we take regarding this matter?

I have commenced direct transactions with the fishermen, compensating them more and acquiring fresher fish. Since establishing a rapport with the fishermen, I have been boarding their vessels to assist in fishing, demonstrating the proper method for dispatching the fish to ensure freshness, so enhancing our appreciation for the fresh element.

This leads me back to my initial argument. This is an invaluable ingredient. How can we optimize it? We collaborate with European and British chefs to instruct them on optimizing fish yield. Consequently, this led to the final organization of the dinners.

How can we optimize our fish yield as we embark on this journey? Is there a segment you would consider egregiously underutilized?

If you intend to consume fish in London, what actions should you take? You visit the supermarket to procure vacuum-sealed fillets. Significant portions are already wasted: the head, bones, and the fragments of fillets on the bones that may otherwise be utilized for a tartare.

This is a matter of concern for me. The diversity of fish utilized is also significant. While cod, salmon, and mackerel are widely recognized, numerous other species are being captured by fishermen. However, due to the absence of a market, they are discarding these fish directly.

In this regard, I believe restaurants have a role in altering customer attitudes; by preparing more unconventional or underappreciated fish, we may demonstrate that this seafood is indeed delectable. Consequently, their consumption will increase.

What should we do from that point?

where preparing meals at home, seek a reputable fishmonger who sources seasonal and, where feasible, local seafood. Learning to fillet fish enhances sustainability significantly. The bones produce exceptional stocks; purchasing a pre-made fish stock from the supermarket is unwarranted.

At the Gill to Tail dinners, every component of the fish will be used

You discuss the impact of eateries on their patrons. This leads us to the Gill to Tail series - please elaborate on the chefs with whom you are collaborating for the 2025 evenings.

Jamie Lee of Kødbyens Fiskebar shares my commitment to sustainability; he engages directly with fishermen, utilizes the daily catch, and maximizes the use of all fish components. Our dinner was the inaugural one of the year, and he exhibited remarkable ingenuity. For example, a tuna heart that we smoked, dried, and subsequently glazed. This is a sustainable concept; we typically do not consume the tuna heart. He is deeply committed to the future population of fish.

Regarding Kyu and Duncan [Jeong Jeon and Robertson, co-owners of Bristol eateries Bokman and Dongnae], I visited their establishments and was greatly pleased by their sustainability practices and the culinary parallels between Japanese and Korean cuisines. Korean cuisine utilizes various components of ingredients, such as fermentation. Thus, we established a connection. They were investigating improved utilization of Cornish produce; therefore, for that meal, I will accompany them to Cornwall to offer my insights.

And Harriet Mansell of the Lyme Regis restaurant Lilac. She possesses advanced foraging skills, and her location is among my preferred regions in the UK, hence I am eager to learn from her. I am deeply engaged with foraging, thus collaborating with her seemed highly logical.

What prompted your interest in foraging?

Forty years ago, at my parents' restaurants, they embraced unconventional vegetable-based cuisine. Each spring, we would venture into the countryside and mountains to forage and preserve our findings for the year. In the autumn, we would engage in mushroom foraging. Implementing it on a larger scale is an excellent method to remain local and seasonal.

What impact do you anticipate foraged items will have on the dishes served at the Gill to Tail dinners?

The outcome is contingent upon our discoveries! I recently conversed with Duncan in anticipation of the forthcoming event to ascertain his concept and potential showcase elements. I intend to visit Harriet around the beginning of April, accompanied by Duncan, who will guide us in selecting the finest seasonal veggies. However, everything is contingent upon the weather; we cannot finalize plans until the last moment, despite having preliminary concepts, as it will rely on market availability. We shall adjust!

Are there any seasonal fish that we ought to eat?

Mackerel is nearing its season. Monkfish will also become rather appealing.

However, if you choose to consume these fish, it is advisable to avoid purchasing filleted varieties. If you lack confidence in filleting at home, consider cooking it whole. You will be astonished by the flavor of the parts you typically avoid - such as fish cheeks, for instance. Consuming the skin is an excellent method to obtain collagen as well. It delivers a robust umami flavor.

Where do you seek sustenance when you prefer not to prepare a meal?

Quality Chop House. I prepare fish so frequently that my predominant hunger occasionally shifts to beef. Quality Chop House exemplifies exceptional, traditional, and authentic culinary practices. Their ice cream is exceptionally delightful.

What are the methods for utilizing leftover food?

I often do not have any leftovers; when I purchase a chicken, I portion it for multiple meals throughout the week. Today, I will prepare the legs; tomorrow, I will create a handmade stock. No remnants, no waste!

RESERVE NOW: 29 & 30 April, dinner with Kyu Jeong Jeon and Duncan Robertson, chef-owners of Bokman and Dongnae restaurants - diningssw3.co.uk

June 10 and 11, supper with Harriet Mansell, chef-owner of Lilac in Lyme Regis.