Pichaya 'Pam' Soontornyanakij, Asia's Best Female Chef

Pichaya 'Pam' Soontornyanakij, the chef-owner of Potong in Bangkok, Thailand, has recently been recognized as Asia's Best Female Chef of 2024 by the Asia's 50 Best Academy.

Chef Pichaya 'Pam' Soontornyanakij

Chef Pam has experienced a notably exhilarating period, as she is the youngest and inaugural female chef to be awarded the Michelin Thailand Opening of the Year Award, in addition to receiving one Michelin star for her restaurant, Potong.

What is your philosophy regarding the five elements, and how is it applied in your culinary practices?

Our concept centers on time: we strive to preserve the memories of our guests. At Potong, we consistently adhere to our five senses and five elements.

I delineate this framework by mastering the five elements: Salt, Acid, Spice, Maillard Reaction, and Texture. Each element possesses distinct and intrinsic features, and when amalgamated, they function concurrently to form a cohesive cosmos.

During the Potong endeavor, I was still pregnant with respect to the five senses. I read a book on child education that stated that for effective memorization of an object, all five senses must be engaged simultaneously. For instance, to instruct my child on the concept of an apple, they must perceive its color, comprehend its nomenclature, and experience its scent, texture, and flavor. If all of that occurs simultaneously, it is subsequently recorded in the human brain. I believe it is feasible to create a memory for my guests while simultaneously 'liberating' one to join my Potong's memory.

At Potong, all dishes adhere to this idea and hold equal significance. Each dish embodies this five-element theory and reaches its pinnacle expression in our dining room ambiance.

I was the pioneer in enhancing and refining Thai-Chinese cuisine. Conveying Thai historical information through cuisine is not straightforward, although I consistently relish the opportunity to challenge myself in this endeavor. As a Thai-Chinese individual, I am convinced that numerous others possess similar childhood recollections to mine. Examining the 400-year history of Chinese immigration to Thailand reveals shared culinary experiences. Thai-Chinese food is well-established, with numerous establishments specializing in this culinary fusion. Our cuisine is termed progressive Thai-Chinese cuisine, and we were pioneers in attempting to revitalize this culinary tradition while also offering a novel perspective.

What is the meaning of 'potong'?

‘Potong’ translates to ‘simplicity/ordinary’ and serves as the cornerstone of brilliance. I utilize this name as it is derived from the original traditional Chinese medicine established by my ancestors, and I wish to honor that legacy.

Potong elevated one of the most significant architectural and design principles to a new level. What is the primary hypothesis of the design?

Art significantly influences the dining experience at Potong, encapsulated by the concept of juxtaposition. Our architecture embodies the principle of juxtaposing disparate elements—be it in architecture, painting, or cuisine—to highlight their distinct characteristics. This is our 'Time.' The ancient and the new coexist throughout the entire area, in every conceivable detail, and I sincerely wish to honor our heritage.

At Potong, you will encounter many canvases on the walls and surrounding environments. These remarkable works include of artistic compositions, paintings, letters, and photographs by K. Vichai Utharntharm (my grand uncle), who resided in this Potong building during the 1900s. Following his demise, I sought to honor my ancestor by displaying these artworks to acknowledge and respect his artistic abilities and originality. Several of his letters addressed to the family eloquently depicted the nature of life during that era, which is precisely the experience I wish to offer my guests in Potong — a journey back in time to create lasting memories.

I believe that the culinary arts represent the most ancient and impactful of all artistic forms. It nourishes not only the body but also the spirit and the imagination. I reconsidered my plating style, integrating classic and modern elements. The cuisine of Potong appears markedly distinct from that of other establishments.

What is the primary objective of your women-for-women scholarship and internship program?

I established the WFW scholarship in collaboration with AWC Thailand, a non-profit organization, to offer financial support to young women in rural Thailand who aspire to pursue careers in the culinary arts.

The objectives are straightforward:

• To offer an outstanding young female student chef the chance to acquire significant experience that will enable her to thrive in a competitive setting and facilitate the commencement of her career, thereby enhancing community value.

• To empower women in rural regions to finance their university education and facilitate the pursuit of their aspirations.

The initiative aims to advance gender equality within the culinary sector. Approximately one year ago, after my initial encounter with Val Munroz from AWC, I discovered that 6000 THB can significantly impact the future of a female child in rural Thailand, enabling her to attain her junior and high school graduation. The AWC operates solely with volunteers, indicating the group's genuine commitment to improving the lives of young Thai women.

I have also learned that numerous young Thai females in rural regions have diminished opportunities for obtaining a proper education. For instance, if a family has two children, a son and a daughter, and can only finance the education of one, it is likely that the funding will be allocated to the son. I aspire to contribute meaningfully to this domain.

What advice would you offer to individuals aspiring to become professional chefs?

Pursue your passions! Not solely for cooks, but in all endeavors, persistently advance. Aspirations devoid of objectives are merely fantasies. One must possess both the determination and the requisite skills to support it. Persevere relentlessly. It is as straightforward as that.

The 12th edition of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, will be revealed on 26 March 2024 in Seoul.