Ready for Exceptional Michelin-Starred Texas Barbecue Perfection in Portland

La Barbecue, renowned in Austin, is establishing a presence in Rose City this year.

Image: La Barbecue

A new contender is emerging in the Portland BBQ landscape: La Barbecue, a Michelin-starred establishment in Austin, Texas, is establishing a far branch with the anticipated launch of its sibling restaurant, Lil’ Barbecue, later this year. Ben Vaughan, general manager and pitmaster at the Austin-based establishment, will spearhead efforts to provide brisket, hog and beef ribs, sausages, and additional offerings to an undisclosed location in Portland.

Vaughan states that he first proposed the concept of expansion to La Barbecue proprietor Ali Clem on his initial visit to Portland last year. Upon conversing with residents regarding his profession in Texas, he garnered substantial encouragement to establish a restaurant. “They insisted, ‘You must relocate here.’ “We require additional barbecue,” Vaughan states. "That prompted me to consider relocating there."

Pork Ribs at La Barbecue

The notion of expansion was not an abstract conception. Clem and her deceased spouse LeAnn Mueller, a scion of Texas barbecue lineage, earlier endeavored to establish a food truck in the Los Angeles area in 2017, but their intentions were thwarted by Los Angeles County restrictions concerning the utilization of offset smokers. However, the relocation to Portland will provide Vaughan an opportunity to evade the harsh summer heat of Central Texas, he asserts. “The weather here is severe,” Vaughan states. "I am uncertain if you have experienced summer in Central Texas, characterized by heat and humidity. I work outdoors near smokers throughout the day, which led to a natural alignment when I proposed the expansion to Ali; she approved and expressed enthusiasm. Consequently, I have been developing a concept for several months." Do not provide information regarding the heat domes to him.

According to Vaughan, Lil’ Barbecue’s menu will closely resemble that of La Barbecue, featuring saucy pork ribs with “a bright, lightly sweet crust,” as characterized by Texas Monthly; pulled pork; brisket; beef ribs; smoked turkey; and house-made, flavorful sausages in traditional, jalapeño, and chipotle varieties. If the remainder of the menu is consistent, patrons may anticipate incorporating any of those meats into a sandwich, along with various specialty sandwich selections, such as a pulled pork sandwich topped with chipotle coleslaw or a Frito pie including chopped brisket.

A modification from the original Austin concept will involve transitioning to an all-day bar-restaurant style; Vaughan asserts that barbecue in Central Texas predominantly serves as a lunch option, typically available from 11 a.m. until sold out around 2 p.m. or 3 p.m. He aims to maintain a continuous supply of food throughout the day, ensuring that individuals do not need to hasten to obtain their barbecue fix. Additionally, there will be bar food, with Vaughan envisioning the sale of a burger crafted from brisket trimmings, which is usually a specialty at La Barbecue.

Clem will serve as a co-owner in the new enterprise, and Vaughan indicates she will be in Portland at the end of June to assist in identifying a site for the new restaurant. They hope to establish a presence on the East side of Portland, if feasible, and Vaughan commended the city's walkability, contrasting it with the atmosphere in Austin (although both cities support food trucks and embrace eccentricity).

In addition to securing a space, the construction of two bespoke, Texas-manufactured smokers will extend the schedule for the opening. They are having a rotisserie smoker constructed by M&M BBQ Company and an offset smoker from Mill Scale Metalworks in Lockhart, Texas, both scheduled for completion and delivery by August or September. Vaughan anticipates opening by late summer or early autumn, provided all proceeds favorably.