Santiago Lastra on Transforming Perceptions of Mexican Cuisine

Santiago leads KOL, which received its first Michelin star, in Marylebone, where it presents a distinctive style of Mexican cuisine, utilizing British ingredients to craft creative tasting menus, such as langoustine tacos and pistachio guacamole.

Image: @haydonperrior

What is your philosophy regarding food?

We utilize seasonal ingredients sourced throughout the UK, drawing inspiration from Mexican cuisine. I endeavor to transfer the events and elements from my culture into British seasonal ingredients.

What was the most significant lesson you acquired at Noma?

I did not work in the kitchen there, hence I did not get extensive knowledge about cooking. I gained a deeper understanding of the concept of quality. The most challenging aspect of being a chef is discerning what is of high quality. During the initial decade of my culinary career, I lacked discernment regarding quality. I was merely attempting to endure - one complies with directives. However, at Noma, I acquired an understanding of quality. Quality is not inherently synonymous with luxury; rather, it is characterized by the respect invested in its creation.

KOL by @charliemckay

What was the origin of the concept for KOL?

After concluding my experience at Noma Mexico, I found myself on the beach in Tulum, contemplating my future direction. I suddenly conceived the notion of disseminating Mexican culture and cuisine globally. I aspire to establish a community and launch a restaurant. I compiled a list of desired attributes for this city, which includes being multicultural, fostering open-mindedness towards different cultures, and an appreciation for spicy cuisine. London fulfilled all the criteria.

What impact did Covid have on many aspects?

We were in the midst of building and successfully brought our managers to Mexico. I got the opportunity to provide them with a brief tour and facilitate their understanding of the culture. One week later, it was Covid. We were compelled to halt all activities for maybe six or seven months. Upon reopening, the restaurant elicited a great response: patrons experienced a sense of vacation after months of deprivation. We have adhered to that theme consistently, evoking a sense of travel and embodying joy.

What distinguishes KOL from other Mexican restaurants?

KOL does not using conventional recipes. It draws inspiration from Mexican flavors while utilizing British ingredients. The items you sample at the restaurant are unavailable in Mexico, nor can they be found elsewhere. Our work possesses a distinctiveness.

What is the experience of possessing a Michelin star?

It is gratifying; we are attempting to refrain from celebrating daily. I am profoundly appreciative of the team with whom I collaborate. My objective was to represent Mexico, and the Michelin star attests to the quality inherent in Mexican cuisine. It is comparable to other global cuisines, characterized by complexity and intrigue, yet also exhibiting refinement.

What is your most unforgettable meal?

The location was Puerto Nuevo in Baja California, Mexico. During one of my research expeditions, we devoted almost 40 days to Mexico. I would arrange interactions with the local populace. We visited a location where one could catch lobsters, which were subsequently fried in pork fat and accompanied by fresh tortillas, rice, beans, and local wine. It was situated directly on the shore, atop the sand.

What are the prevalent misunderstandings regarding Mexican cuisine?

Americans consume Tex-Mex cuisine. The cuisine in Texas is exceptional, yet distinct. Tex-Mex cuisine is distinct; nonetheless, many individuals mistakenly see it as traditional Mexican food, including dishes such as fajitas, burritos, and chili con carne. Chili con carne is not consumed in Mexico; the term fajitas is hardly used in central Mexico. We do not genuinely commemorate Cinco de Mayo. Margaritas, however exceptional and produced in Texas, are not representative of authentic Mexican culture. To qualify as an authentic Mexican restaurant, it is unnecessary to be fine dining; however, all preparations must be executed with care and originate from scratch. If a dish has frozen tortillas and canned sauce, it lacks authenticity; all components must be prepared with fresh ingredients.

What is your signature dish?

Mexican cuisine is rather complex to prepare at home. Due to time constraints, I primarily prepare Spanish and Italian cuisine. If I prepare Mexican cuisine, I will cook quesadillas with mushrooms and cheese, utilizing corn tortillas. Alternatively, for a special occasion, I will prepare fish tacos.