Suzanne Cupps Discovers Her Culinary Identity at Lola's

Following years in esteemed kitchens throughout New York, Cupps emerges with a profoundly personal endeavor—one motivated by tradition, hospitality, and meticulous perfection.

Suzanne Cupps, the chef at Lola’s.Credit...Amir Hamja/The New York Times

The Initial Phase: Transitioning from Hospitality to Culinary Arts

Suzanne Cupps did not arrive at cooking by the conventional path of many accomplished chefs. She did not grow up cooking alongside her mother or grandmother, lacked an early inclination towards food, and initially showed little interest in it when she began working in restaurants. Rather, it was the hospitality—the inclination to welcome and serve visitors—that captivated her. Her instructors, Anita Lo and Michael Anthony, progressively immersed her in the enchantment of culinary creation.

Cupps was raised in Maryland and subsequently in South Carolina. Her mother hailed from Pennsylvania, while her father fled the Philippines as a kid during World War II. His mother, Cupps's grandmother, successfully escaped the nation with her three young children following her husband's death, initially reaching Manila before boarding a U.S. Navy vessel to America.

Following high school, Cupps was uncertain about her future aspirations. She specialized on mathematics during her collegiate studies and recognized her aversion to desk-bound employment; however, she remained uncertain about her future direction.

“I lacked enthusiasm for food and rarely traveled, yet I recognized that if I did not embark on new experiences, I feared I would never attempt anything,” she states. Following the events of September 11th, she experienced a compelling desire to relocate to New York. She dedicated a year to sales before securing a position in human resources at the Waldorf Astoria New York, marking her initial foray into the hospitality industry. One year later, the hotel need assistance in the steakhouse, and Cupps assumed the role of assistant manager.

“I appreciated the rapid tempo and the atmosphere,” states Cupps. “I have never entered the kitchen, so my interest was not in cooking; however, I considered that this could be a seamless transition—perhaps I could pursue a career in hospitality and restaurants.”

Simultaneously, she commenced home cooking and learned about the Institute of Culinary Education from a friend. She completed six months of study at ICE and secured an externship at Gramercy Tavern. Upon graduation, she commenced her tenure at Annisa, where she was employed under Anita Lo for six years. It was there that she uncovered her passion for culinary arts.

“She instructed me in culinary techniques and imparted the exhilaration associated with kitchen endeavors.” I thoroughly enjoyed it. Cupps states, "It was a markedly different environment—stressful and bustling, yet I was active and engaged in work." I believe my aptitude for mathematics has fostered my appreciation for the accuracy inherent in cuisine. I lacked the refined palate at the time, however I derived immense satisfaction from precisely chopping ingredients into squares daily or flawlessly preparing a piece of fish.

Cupps ultimately decided to regain her evenings and weekends by accepting a lunch service position at Gramercy Tavern, her former workplace. As with other new employees, she commenced her tenure at the Tavern, reporting to Michael Anthony. After six months, he relocated her to the primary dining room.

“It was the inaugural occasion that I genuinely began to contemplate vegetables.” Cupps states, "I was raised consuming vegetables, yet I did not consider them as a central theme for a menu." “Mike's fervor for sourcing, farmers, and the narratives associated with them profoundly piqued my interest in that aspect of culinary arts.”

Lola’s: A Culinary Establishment Grounded in Tradition and Exactitude

Ultimately, she ascended to the position of sous chef—acquiring increased responsibilities, refining her palate, and mastering the art of crafting and presenting her own recipes aesthetically. In 2015, when Danny Meyer granted Anthony the opportunity to establish Untitled at the new Whitney Museum, he appointed Cupps as chef de cuisine. “It was an extraordinary opportunity for me to expand and develop, to curate a menu with the team,” states Cupps, who assumed the role of executive chef after Anthony returned full-time to Gramercy Tavern in 2017. Operating a museum restaurant is particularly complex; hence, Cupps departed in 2019 to pursue new endeavors (Untitled is now defunct).

She managed a gourmet dining establishment for Dig Inn, which regrettably struggled when the pandemic struck within three months post-opening, although it remained operational until 2022. Following a tenure as a private chef, she contemplated establishing her own restaurant, ultimately devising the concept for Lola’s.

Lola's, named in honor of her grandmother who fled the Philippines, commenced operations in April 2024. The restaurant has an à la carte menu including New American cuisine infused with Filipino and Southern flavors, emphasizing local and seasonal ingredients. Cupps states, "I aimed to conceive something personal, yet not imposed upon individuals upon their arrival, restricting their experience to my preferences." Lola's evolved into a haphazard amalgamation of my existence.

With Lola’s, Cupps is harnessing a lifetime of resolute determination, culinary rigor, and profound personal history to create a restaurant that genuinely reflects her identity.