Diamonds Are Eternal: Boodles Introduces Its Inaugural Pink Diamond Ashoka

The British jeweller is commemorating a significant design milestone.

Boodles, established in Liverpool in 1798, is renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship and exquisite gemstones. The residence is now acknowledged for its Ashoka diamonds and uncommon pink jewels. For the first time, the two converge in a singular jewel. The completed ring features a three-carat baby pink Ashoka diamond, procured from family jewellers William Goldberg in New York, and is adorned with Argyle pink diamonds, resulting in a striking brilliance.

We converse with Jody Wainwright, Managing Director of Boodles, regarding the evolution of the precious jewel and its significance for the brand.

Jody Wainwright Discusses Boodles' Inaugural Ashoka First Pink Ashoka

What is the rarity of locating a pink diamond appropriate for the Ashoka cut?

Exceedingly uncommon. In our 26 years of experience with the Ashoka cut, I have never encountered a stone of this nature. Due to the scarcity of pink diamonds and the difficulty in locating stones appropriate for the Ashoka cut—one of the most intricate and technically demanding cuts globally—only a limited number of Ashokas are made annually. This acquisition is very remarkable.

The Ashoka is recognised for its technological requirements. What renders this cut so precise, and why was it suitable for this stone?

In this case, the stone appears up to one-third larger than it would in an emerald cut, which accounts for the allure of the Ashoka cut. The Ashoka cut accentuates both the hue and dimensions of the stone, merging the vibrancy of a round brilliant cut with the refined sophistication of an emerald cut, rendering this stone a remarkable centrepiece. Locating a pink diamond of this grade and calibre is quite unusual, but discovering one appropriate for the Ashoka cut is even more uncommon.

Could you elucidate the progression from South Africa to Fifth Avenue, culminating at Boodles?

The Goldberg team has a buyer in South Africa actively seeking stones suitable for cutting into Ashoka diamonds. In this case, the rough was a stunning, nearly nine-carat pink diamond. This unpolished specimen was particularly thrilling - a genuine, vibrant pink of outstanding grade. Goldberg was elated because it was a longer stone, appropriate for an Ashoka, which is an exceedingly unusual opportunity for a pink diamond of this magnitude and calibre. The stone was fashioned in Goldberg’s workshop on Fifth Avenue, resulting in a pink Ashoka diamond - certified at 3.02 carats, fancy light pink, internally flawless, and exceptionally remarkable.

Considering the hue and scarcity, Goldberg undoubtedly believed it would be ideal for Boodles. In July, I travelled to New York to get stone, observed it, and made the purchase on-site.

What was the significance of acquiring this work from a familial establishment such as Goldberg?

We have collaborated with the Goldbergs for 26 years and maintain a really amicable relationship with them. Collaborating with another family firm is consistently gratifying; we share fundamental beliefs and can respond swiftly and forcefully to emerging opportunities. Having collaborated for decades, Goldberg comprehends our precise requirements and promptly contacts us when an exceptional stone becomes available.

What prompted you to choose a ring as the medium of presentation instead of another type of jewellery?

This stone is so extraordinary that it merits becoming the focal point of a singular, independent sculpture. A ring seems to be the most organic and appropriate method to display it — a gem that can be adorned and appreciated by the wearer daily, while prominently showing the Ashoka pink.

What do the Argyle pink diamonds contribute to the central Ashoka?

Argyle pink diamonds are among the rarest gemstones globally. It continues to astonish me that even at maximum output, the quantity of extraordinary stones generated annually might fit within the confines of a hand. Boodles enjoys a unique partnership with Rio Tinto, granting us exclusive access to the remaining pink diamonds from the Argyle mine, which ceased operations in 2020.

They are not only an investment stone, appreciating in value by 10 to 15 percent annually, but they are also exceptionally beautiful. The 16 Argyle pink diamonds have a richer hue than the Ashoka, and their placement in rose gold introduces a softness that contrasts elegantly with the Ashoka's precise accuracy.

Boodles is renowned for both Ashokas and pink diamonds - what does the combination of these two signify for the house at this juncture?

It is a significant and exceedingly exhilarating occasion. Having collaborated with the Ashoka cut for 26 years without possessing a pink Ashoka, this is indeed a unique opportunity. Our expertise in pink diamonds and exclusive rights to the Ashoka cut in the UK make their combination particularly appropriate, especially with the brilliant Argyle pinks encircling the core stone. It effectively amalgamates our two specialisations: pinks and Ashokas.

Do you perceive this as a unique artefact, or might it result in further items of a similar nature?

Although I would appreciate encountering another stone of this nature, it appears improbable. The narrative of pink diamonds is regrettably concluding, as there have been no credible new sources since the cessation of operations at the Argyle Mine. Each pink diamond is a unique treasure, particularly one fashioned in the Ashoka cut.

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