Pierpaolo Piccioli's First Collection for Balenciaga Resembled An After-dinner Mint

The previous creative director of Valentino presented a refreshing interlude that connected the brand's history with its contemporary identity.

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How can one amalgamate the audacious hyper-realist satire of a predecessor with the exceedingly avant-garde invention of another, while yet honoring the foundational couture classicist of the Balenciaga house? Pierpaolo Piccioli's inaugural collection effectively addresses that inquiry, particularly for those curious about how Ingrid Bergman might appear if she were engaged in digital media and possessed a season pass to the opera. The style closely resembles reality; celebrity appearances at prominent fashion shows resemble bingo cards, yet none have yet marked off Meghan Markle, Pink Pantheress, Lauren Sánchez, FKA Twigs, and Anne Hathaway simultaneously.

The collection was exceptionally marketable, a recurring theme among the designers who have presented thus far—they seek to entice consumers and inspire them. It garnered extensive popularity, uniting both the house's devoted historical enthusiasts and the followers of Demna. Upon closer examination, Piccioli's debut collection incorporated more early Demna influences, such as the semi-sheer T-shirt and boxy silhouettes, than many might have anticipated. His nuanced gestures towards the current Gucci creative director effectively highlighted how Demna subtly commemorated Cristóbal’s heritage.

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Any reference made by Piccioli required, in the designer's own terminology in the show notes, a complete "recalibration." Consequently, the apparel served as a palate cleanser that connected the past with the present, a challenge that every emerging designer must confront (albeit it is uncommon to encounter so many consecutively). The inaugural ensemble, inspired by the 1957 sack dress—a controversial silhouette of its era—paired with oversized sunglasses reminiscent of contemporary collections, exemplifies this concept effectively. Identical to the 1960s evening cape depicted in leather, paired with low-rise skinny slacks and a gold B-buckle belt. However, if you were unaware of that context, you might perceive it as the attire of the most sophisticated woman you know, and that widespread allure is what renders the clothes entirely relevant to contemporary times.

Even with this transformative method, the essence of Piccioli’s mindset emerged. That is the essence of initiating a new age, after all. Feathered skirts, opera gloves, and a monochromatic color palette evoked the distinctive youthful elegance characteristic of his Valentino designs. His partner is adorned in oversized flip-flops and parachute khaki shorts; what of it? This skill became especially effective when he noticed that the couture audience was rapidly becoming younger and desired immediate gratification.

Nonetheless, it is Piccioli's infusion of contemporary timelessness, along with the abrupt departure from the Demna era, that reveals the enduring potential of the Balenciaga house. With the runway cleared, the designer faces an unobstructed path ahead.