Products That Restore Your Skin Barrier

Emily Davis
May 22, 2025
4 min read

These skincare products are precisely what your skin barrier requires.

A Comprehensive Guide to Your Skin Barrier and Its Restoration

In the previous year, there were about 500,000 Google searches for the keyword 'skin barrier,' over 200,000 TikTok videos, and more than 400,000 Instagram posts related to the subject. What is the skin barrier, and why has it garnered significant attention?

Dr. Emma Craythorne, consultant dermatologist and founder of the skincare company Klira, elucidates that the skin barrier constitutes the outermost layer of the skin. It consists primarily of deceased skin cells organised in a bricks-and-mortar configuration, with the cells serving as the bricks and the mortar being a blend of free fatty acids, lipids, and cholesterol. It is a watertight barrier that obstructs external irritants from entering.

The issue arises when the skin barrier is impaired. This can occur due to various factors, including genetic predisposition, stress, and age; as we age, our body generates less lipids essential for the barrier, and the deficiency of oestrogen in postmenopausal women intensifies this issue. However, it is frequently self-imposed.

We continue to experience the repercussions of lockdown, during which there was a significant emphasis on skincare and a proliferation of social media accounts discussing goods, resulting in many consumers believing they can self-diagnose and address skin concerns.

What Causes Disruption of Our Skin Barrier?

Dr. Ellie Rashid, a consultant dermatologist in private practice and affiliated with the skincare brand CeraVe, states that the predominant cause of a compromised skin barrier among patients is the excessive application of exfoliating agents. That may be due to an existing issue, such as acne, prompting them to employ all possible remedies. Alternatively, it may stem from a lack of comprehension about the characteristics of various components; for instance, they might be utilising a vitamin A derivative like retinol while also seeking to enhance their complexion with vitamin C, in conjunction with a glycollic acid cleanser, all of which are acidic.

Physical exfoliants and dermaplaning may also aggravate the skin's barrier. Regardless of the method of damage, the outcome is the formation of holes that facilitate the escape of moisture from the skin while simultaneously permitting the ingress of pollutants, dirt, bacteria, and other substances, leading to discomfort.

Dr. Craythorne suggests that we may be attempting to address non-existent problems. “There exists an exceedingly unrealistic expectation regarding the appearance of skin,” she explains. It is propelled by the incessant video calls we do and the ubiquitous filtering present on nearly all devices. I observe numerous patients, and their images on Instagram significantly differ from their actual skin conditions.

Social media trends, including glass skin, which refers to the quest for a clear, luminous complexion resembling glass and sometimes attained through rigorous exfoliation, are unhelpful. The Harley Street Skin Clinic said that at the conclusion of 2024, the fad had amassed 1.2 million Instagram posts, 469,200 TikTok mentions, and the word 'glass skin' had been searched on Google 1.1 million times that year.

It is ironic that in the pursuit of flawless skin, we have exacerbated the situation and thus created an entirely new category of products. Brands such as Byoma, established in 2022, have prioritised barrier protection and restoration, while skincare specialists like Sarah Chapman, who just introduced her Barrier Restore facial, have expanded their offerings.

Identifying the Indicators

The new facial was a reaction to observations made at the clinic regarding clients who had been excessively using acids and retinoids without proper direction or regulation. Chapman elucidates that the skin had reached a threshold of intolerance, employing near infrared light to diminish redness and inflammation, cryotherapy for a cooling effect, and her proprietary R&R Glow Recovery Cream, which incorporates ceramides and anti-inflammatory components like ectoin and asiaticoside.

Dr. Craythorne states, "Any substance applied to the skin—even those previously tolerated—may cause stinging, as the external environment can infiltrate more readily." That is one of the initial indicators. The skin may exhibit redness due to irritation, or develop dry patches as it loses moisture more readily.

Methods to Restore Your Skin Barrier

Upon detecting the damage, the repair process typically involves minimising actions rather than maximising them, while executing repairs with utmost delicacy. “Cease all activities,” states Dr. Rashid. This may entail condensing your skincare regimen to merely two steps: cleansing and moisturising. “Provided they do not intend to spend considerable time outdoors, I will advise patients to discontinue the use of SPF until their condition is ameliorated.”

Dr. Craythorne agrees. “Utilize mild cream or oil cleansers, devoid of fragrance and foaming agents, as surfactants may irritate or exacerbate skin dryness.” Subsequently, for your moisturiser, seek a formulation that will replenish what has been depleted from the barrier.

Dr. Rashid advises seeking items abundant in moisturising components, including glycerin, ceramides, fatty acids, and hyaluronic acid.

Many individuals believe that a skin barrier issue may be remedied with products like Vaseline; however, it merely acts as an occlusive agent, trapping existing moisture within the skin. Additionally, it is essential to use humectants that attract moisture to the skin, along with substances such as ceramides that aid in reconstructing the barrier.

When will conditions begin to improve?

By adhering to proper practices, one might anticipate an improvement in skin comfort within four to five days. Significant improvement should be evident after a few weeks. Dr. Rashid advises a gradual reintroduction of additional products into the regimen or the initiation of any new treatments. Commence with one at a time, rather than attempting all simultaneously. Allow a week or two between the reintroduction of each product.

If you wish to safeguard your skin barrier instead of merely repairing it, comparable guidance applies. It involves understanding your skin's tolerance, refraining from fragrances if your skin is sensitive, consistently moisturising with products that include barrier-enhancing lipids, and proceeding cautiously when experimenting with new products.