Tartan - The Preeminent Trend of Winter

The Resurgence of Tartan Fashion

Claudia Winkleman has infused British fashion essentials with a renewed sense of glamour through her styling on The Traitors (c) BBC/Studio Lambert/LLARA PLAZA.

In February, we observed a significant trend persist on the runway at London Fashion Week: Britcore. While it may not be an unexpected story originating from the UK capital, the rapid proliferation of polo stripes, tweeds, and checks on the global stage was indeed a delightful revelation.

Burberry gave tartan the spotlight in many of its AW25 runway looks

As winter approaches, the quintessential elements of British style are becoming prevalent in mainstream fashion. What is the pattern guiding the movement? Tartan. Although rooted in Scottish traditions, we Brits have jointly embraced the traditional cloth.

Giles Deacon, Creative Director of Purdey, observes that 'Tartan is immediately identifiable by its harmonious checks and crossing lines - a visual rhythm of colour and symmetry.' ‘ It conveys a profound relationship among pattern, location, and British craftsmanship.

He adds, "There is a distinct desire for authenticity." Individuals are increasingly drawn to items characterised by permanence—authentic materials and exquisite craftsmanship. Tartan represents a unique amalgamation of historical significance and contemporary relevance.

Holland Cooper champions British craftsmanship and classic styles

“Tartan is an enduring element of British fashion, and I have always appreciated its versatility,” remarks Jade Holland Cooper, fashion designer and founder of Holland Cooper. It is commendable to observe the resurgence of heritage textiles paired with modern silhouettes, particularly in runway presentations. It embodies heritage while incorporating a contemporary touch, with unusual fabric combinations, vibrant colours, and layered patterns that harmoniously coexist, resulting in an aesthetically pleasing appearance.

Nonetheless, despite modern interpretations, this tradition is well rooted, rendering tartan one of the most globally recognisable fabrics. “It undoubtedly possesses a unique aesthetic,” states Tom Birkbeck, Creative Director of House of Bruar. This ultimately pertains to the quality of craftsmanship involved. Scottish tartan is conventionally a worsted 2/2 twill weave fabric, wherein the "weft" yarn traverses over two "warp" strands rather than one, resulting in a sequence of dashes that culminate in diagonal lines. Incorporate two or more alternating coloured stripes, and the instantly identifiable checkered pattern emerges.

The creation of tartan is a revered craft in the UK, especially in its origin, Scotland. The textile is believed to have been woven and worn since the third century, but it was not until several centuries later that it became associated with specific clans in the region.

Giles delineates, "Tartan's narrative originates in the Highlands, a textile historically employed to signify region and lineage." The fabric really embodies Scotland, having been temporarily prohibited by the British government to suppress Highland culture and avert a recurrence of the 1745 Jacobite insurrection.

However, the prohibition was short-lived; in fact, tartan gained even greater popularity. Tom elucidates that Queen Victoria developed an affection for Scotland. This facilitated the transformation of tartan into an emblem of the romantic Scottish spirit. It has transitioned from a controversial emblem to a universal one in the context of Great Britain.

Tartan has undergone numerous resurgences across multiple generations. The royally sanctioned countryside tartans include the Royal Stewart, which is recognised as the official tartan of the royal family, according to Tom. “That is a style universally accessible, as we are all regarded as members of their clan.” — the nostalgic après-ski allure of the slopes, the 1970s punk aesthetic popularised by Vivienne Westwood, and the modern elegance of the runway.

Fashion Week may have served as a robust catalyst for the resurgence of tartan, although its current significance in popular culture, particularly in television, is hard to overlook. Jade concurs, stating that television plays a significant influence in this matter. Programs such as The Traitors, Rivals, and The Gentleman embrace this conventional aesthetic, enhancing their allure.

“It is indeed a universal cultural emblem,” adds Tom. It signifies a distinct meaning for each individual who dons it. It is a fabric of Scottish origin that has been welcomed and cherished throughout the UK and beyond.

While it is exhilarating to witness tartan ascend to global prominence, it is crucial to acknowledge its origins. Tartan signifies heritage. It embodies the subtle resilience of British identity - a legacy that is embraced, cultivated, and valued," elucidates Giles. Tartan and tweed signify that British textiles are not mere artefacts of history, but vibrant traditions—continuously crafted with skill, purposefully donned, and emblematic of a distinct, understatedly assured lifestyle.

“A tartan can be produced anywhere, utilising any thread; however, the finest quality is crafted in Britain exclusively from pure new wool,” Tom asserts. Each visit to our mill partners, like as Lochcarron in the Scottish Borders, enhances my understanding and admiration for their craftsmanship. We must foster and cultivate those generational competencies.

Guidelines for Donning Tartan This Season

Interested in experimenting with tartan styling? Prior to proceeding, review the insights provided by our specialists, who reveal their premier techniques for achieving the desired appearance.

Curate Your Palette

Primarily, consider your colour pallet. The plethora of tartans available allows for an expression of personal style or even emotional state. Tom observes that the possibilities are limitless.

However, if you are hesitant about colour, he suggests choosing a darker tartan: 'Blackwatch tartan is an excellent starting point, as its palette of black, navy blue, and bottle green complements other garments effectively.' A tartan prefixed with “muted,” “ancient,” or “weathered” indicates that the colours have been subdued to achieve a more understated, rustic appearance.

For the audacious: 'Embrace the vintage Royal Stewart boldly.'

Select a Statement Piece

Although we are drawn to tartans, coordinating them with our existing clothing can be quite challenging. To overcome that obstacle, Jade suggests beginning with a central hero piece and constructing the surrounding elements accordingly. “For daily attire, begin with a singular statement piece—such as a finely tailored tartan blazer or a pair of checked trousers—and complement it with crisp, neutral essentials,” she recommends. A tartan scarf or short skirt enhances a plain knit or fresh white shirt while wearing casually.

“It is fundamentally about equilibrium,” she states, “integrating traditional heritage motifs with contemporary silhouettes and textures.”

Examine the specifics

A pattern as immediately identifiable as tartan can also enhance more basic items. As the adage goes, it resides in the particulars. “Subtlety invariably triumphs,” asserts Giles. A delicately crafted scarf, a jacket lining or a field gilet in subdued hues can impart understated elegance. The objective is timeless sophistication – pattern as emphasis.

Exhibit It with Pride

Finally, wear it with elegance. “Confidence is paramount,” asserts Jade. Tartan is inherently striking, yet when donned purposefully, it transforms into an effortlessly sophisticated ensemble.