A New Benchmark for Patek Philippe’s Modern Women's Timepieces

Patek Philippe unveils its inaugural high complication in the Twenty~4 collection with Ref. 7340/1R, embodying an advanced perspective on complicated timepieces for women.

Ref. 7340/1R-001

Initially, when we documented the Patek Philippe Ref. 7340/1R for this year's Vision issue, it seemed an obvious choice: Patek Philippe introduced their inaugural high complexity – referred to as a grand complication by the company – within the Twenty~4 line. Merely seven years prior, this esteemed collection of women's watches was exclusively quartz and featured a unique design; thereafter, the introduction of a circular automatic model prompted speculation over whether the Genevan company will enhance this collection with a complexity. Reference 7340, as we shall denote it, is the solution to that inquiry. Upon reflection, this may indeed align with Patek Philippe's strategies, even prior to the introduction of the automatic model in 2018.

Ref. 7340/1R-010

To comprehend, we must delve further into the past, specifically to the discontinued model known as the Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071R. This timepiece marked a significant transformation at Patek Philippe and was perceived as a bold initiative in 2009, primarily due to its introduction of Patek Philippe’s inaugural manufacture chronograph movement. For those who do not recall, this indeed implied that males averse to purchasing a ladies' model for themselves would have to forgo the initial unveiling of calibre CH 29-535 PS. It is important to note that in 2009, unisex watches were not widely recognized as a significant trend, and Ref. 7071R was introduced featuring diamonds (136 round diamonds on the dial flange). In other words, the purpose and intended recipient of the watch were unequivocal, as the designation Ladies First Chronograph clearly indicated.

DIVERSE APPROACHES

This year's numerous releases, particularly the notably restrained women's watches, such as the Twenty~4—which is not a unisex collection—and the Cubitus Ref. 7128 (available in two variants), may invite speculation regarding the significance of precious gemstones in this context. The inclusion of watches like Ref. 4946 and the comparably sized Ref. 6196 reinforces the idea that the manufacturer aims to provide understated timepieces for women. This phenomenon has persisted for some time, and we have yet to consider Ref. 7040 and Ref. 7130; nonetheless, Patek Philippe undoubtedly acknowledges the artisanal significance of gemsetting in classical horology. Examine this year's Ref. 5811/1460 and Ref. 7010G for substantiation.

Ref. 7071R Ladies First Chronograph

Indeed, the essence lies in the variety of watches catering to diverse preferences, and a Patek Philippe perpetual calendar does not require diamond embellishments to attract women. The new Ref. 7340 has a certain relationship with Ref. 7071R, as it may have followed a similar trajectory but ultimately did not. The outcome is a timepiece that is far more inclusive and accessible, while simultaneously possessing the distinction of being pioneering in other aspects. Reference 7340 is the inaugural round Twenty~4 watch devoid of a gem-set bezel. We acknowledge this development; however, we amend our earlier evaluation that the watch signifies a “female collector emphasizing substance over embellishment, and tradition over innovation.” There are no priorities present, unless they pertain to enhancing the allure of horology. This explains why the uncomplicated three-hander is the most favored classic timepiece, albeit we are prematurely advancing the discussion.

Ref. 7130R-014

Complex Aesthetics

Having extensively discussed Ref. 7340, let us briefly explore the fundamentals and certain specifics. The ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 Q powers all aspects of the 36mm Ref. 7340/1R, the same movement utilized in most of Patek Philippe’s grand complexity perpetual calendars. This indicates that we are examining continuity in the complex grand complication sector, as well as a modular calibre whose merits are widely acknowledged. Measuring a slender 3.88mm, the 275-component caliber with a 48-hour power reserve operates a comprehensive perpetual calendar display that necessitates no manual adjustment until 2100.

Ref. 7040/250G

The calibre not only functions as the mechanism of the watch but also serves as a statement; in a superior timepiece, intricacy is appealing and can influence aesthetics. The Patek Philippe perpetual calendar, including numerous subdials, presents a quite elaborate visage to the world. Gemsetting could enhance value, if it aligns with the merits of a prestigious caliber like the 240 Q. Additionally, refer to Ref. 5811 and Ref. 7010 for thoroughness. The inclusion of Ref. 4946 solidifies this narrative, as the aesthetic appeal is derived from the subdials of the annual calendar complexity.

TEXTURED AESTHETIC

Ref. 4946R-001

In conclusion with Ref. 7340, there are two dial options, both of which are crafted in rose gold and accompanied by matching bracelets. The 7340/1R-001 features a silvery dial with vertical and horizontal satin-brushed finishes that mimic the unique woven texture of shantung silk. It is sufficient to state that photographs do not adequately represent this type of textured dial; view it in person if possible. The alternative choice, Ref. 7340/1R-010, aligns more closely with current trends due to its sunburst olive green dial. Regardless of personal opinion, the color scheme complements rose gold and is unlikely to disappoint, but we are more persuaded by the shantung variant.