Fred's Most Recent High Jewellery Collection Represents Their Legacy Reinterpreted

If jewelry possessed a personality, FRED's current High Jewellery line would embody the effortlessly stunning guest at a soirée—one who captures the light impeccably and consistently understands how to make a striking impression.

Entitled The Sunshine Jeweler’s First Light, this luminous new collection is divided into two segments: 1936 and Soleil d’Or Sunrise—a dazzling homage to happiness and the art of elegant living. To comprehend the genesis of this Maison, we must examine its beginnings.

At the age of 28, Fred Samuel inaugurated his inaugural boutique on Rue Royale in 1936, possessing a distinct vision: to eschew conventional, formal jewelry relegated to special occasions. He desired dynamism, vibrancy, and autonomy. Jewelry that shimmered in the sunlight, thrived on the Riviera, and was equally suitable for a candlelight meal as it was for a boat deck.

Samuel, born into a family of gemstone merchants, was enthralled from an early age by the radiance of colored stones beneath the Argentine sun. Subsequently, mentored by esteemed pearl traders in Paris, he cultivated a fervor for farmed pearls, perpetually influenced by light, especially sunlight.

Chapter One: 1936

The 1936 chapter draws inspiration from the outset, with sharp lines, striking forms, and a novel interpretation of Art Deco. The central feature is the arches, glistening architectural forms.

One necklace, for example, showcases a Colombian emerald from the renowned Muzo mines, positioned within a captivating inverted arch. Coordinated earrings and a striking ring finalize the ensemble, unified by the characteristic arch detail. Sri Lankan sapphires prominently feature with their rich, velvety blues complemented by a sophisticated arrangement of diamonds.

1936 white gold necklace featuring a 4.24-carat emerald and diamonds

1936 earrings and ring crafted from white gold, adorned with sapphires and diamonds

The ruby collection features vivid Pigeon Blood red stones from Mozambique, incorporated into flexible chokers and striking rings. The fire is genuine. Include a pearl necklace composed of delicately hued Akoya pearls—a tribute to Samuel’s formative years and perpetually stylish.

Chapter Two: Soleil d’Or Dawn

Soleil d’Or Sunrise transformable earrings crafted from white gold and adorned with diamonds

While 1936 emphasizes drama and structure, Soleil d’Or Sunrise embodies warmth and fluidity. Since its inception, light has been fundamental to FRED. This excitement peaked in 1977, when the Maison discovered an exceptional yellow diamond exceeding 100 carats in weight. Its golden glow was so vibrant that it appeared to have encapsulated the sun itself. It was aptly named Soleil d’Or. The diamond emerged as a symbol of the house, and upon its reintegration into the archives in 2021, it persists in shaping the brand's creative trajectory.

Margaux Hemingway and the Soleil d’Or, 1977 © Alain Dejean - Sygma through Getty Images

Placement of the yellow diamond on the necklace

A bib necklace, illuminated by the gentle radiance of early morning light, captivates attention with its combination of grain-set yellow diamonds and claw-set white stones. The strands cascade softly over the collarbone, culminating in a prominent centerpiece: a 2-carat diamond in a vivid Fancy Intense Yellow—a subtle homage to the renowned Soleil d’Or.

Soleil d’Or Sunrise necklace (bib) in yellow and white gold, including yellow and white diamonds

Soleil d’Or Sunrise necklace and convertible earrings in white gold and diamonds

Almost 90 years after Fred Samuel inaugurated his establishment, FRED persists in illuminating spaces with structured jewelry that retains a sense of dynamism. Each item, whether it embodies the acute geometry of 1936 or the golden warmth of Soleil d’Or Sunrise, encapsulates some aspect of Samuel’s original essence: joy, vibrancy, and an inherent radiance intended for wear.