Jane's Birkin Bag Differed from Conventional Birkins

The prototype is currently available for auction at Sotheby's, revealing various distinctive design elements.

There exists a rationale for individuals to carry bags adorned with eccentric charms, as well as for the appreciation of patina on leather rather than its disparagement. This pertains to the renowned Hermès Birkin bag, named after its owner, Jane Birkin, a prominent figure in fashion history. It is currently available for auction. The inaugural Birkin bag, referred to as the Original Birkin, will be the centerpiece of Sotheby’s Fashion Icons Sale on July 10 and will be shown at Sotheby’s New York from June 6 to June 12. The sale appropriately corresponds with Paris Haute Couture Week, from July 7 to July 10.

 The Original Birkin was created 40 years ago following a serendipitous encounter between Birkin and Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas during a journey from Paris to London in 1981. Following her expression of dissatisfaction with the dimensions of existing leather handbags—Birkin notably utilized wicker baskets—Dumas resolved to design one for her, which ultimately inspired the creation of the Birkin bag as we know it today.

 The Original undoubtedly exhibits significant wear after over a decade of continuous use. It also displays the remnants of stickers she affixed in support of Médecins du Monde and UNICEF. However, delving deeper into the specifics reveals additional distinctive features. The Original Birkin was merely a prototype presented to Jane, resulting in modest design variations from the commercial form that debuted in 1984 and continues to be offered by Hermès. The Sotheby’s specialists identified seven distinctive features absent from the bag we recognize.

 We will now examine the distinctive design components of Jane's Original Birkin.

 The Shoulder Strap

Courtesy of Sotheby's

 The most apparent distinction is an elongated shoulder strap atypical of contemporary market models. Although a limited-edition variant featuring a detachable strap was created in the 1990s, the Original Birkin is distinguished by its non-removable shoulder strap.

Size

Courtesy of Sotheby's

 The Birkin is available in 40 and 35 centimeter sizes. Jane's design is distinctive as it possesses the width and height of a Birkin 35 while exhibiting the depth of a Birkin 40.

Hardware

Courtesy of Sotheby's

 Contemporary Birkins frequently include gold-plated hardware, while alternatives such as palladium, rose gold, and ruthenium are available; in contrast, the Original Birkin is equipped with gilded brass hardware.

Metal Rings (or Pontets)

Courtesy of Sotheby's

 Jane's Birkin had closed metal rings, or pontets, akin to those of the Haut à Courroies. Upon its initial commercial release, Hermès designed the Birkin with open pontets at the bottom; however, in the early 1990s, the maison transitioned to open top rings.

Bottom studs.

Courtesy of Sotheby's

 The studs, or feet, on the base of the original Birkin are smaller than those subsequently utilized by Hermès in manufacture.

Inner Zip

Courtesy of Sotheby's

 During the production of the prototype, Hermès continued to procure zippers from the Éclair firm. In the 1990s, Hermès commenced collaboration with the Riri firm.

Stamped J.B

Courtesy of Sotheby's

 The Original Birkin features Jane's initials, "J.B.," embossed on the front flap of the bag.

Additionally, One More Customized Distinction

Courtesy of Sotheby's

Jane, admired for her relaxed aesthetic, maintained her nails neatly trimmed. She possessed a nail clipper suspended on a chain at the base of the shoulder strap within her bag.