The Contemporary Era of Knitwear

A multitude of designers, like JW Anderson and Henry Zankov, are revolutionizing the tactile qualities of cashmere and cotton with audacious sweaters that astonish and please.

This year's sweater season appears distinct. A floor-length mohair cardigan or a crewneck featuring a driver's perspective from a vintage camper van may not be the typical choice for autumn layering, although it may be time to contemplate that an unconventional option is precisely what you require. A multitude of designers, ranging from premium brands to nascent cottage-industry artisans, are revolutionizing the tactile qualities of cashmere and cotton.

“I do not appreciate conventional knitwear,” states Henry Zankov. “It is unlikely that you will encounter a cable knit in my collection.” The recipient of the CFDA Emerging Designer of the Year Award, who established his namesake label in 2020, has rapidly gained favor within the New York fashion world, renowned for his vibrant color schemes and striking graphic patterns. In conjunction with labels such as The Elder Statesmen, Kiko Kostadinov, and JW Anderson, Zankov is heralding a vibrant, eccentric epoch that is neither boisterous nor subdued. In reality, it is not fashionable; instead, it signifies a resurgence of knitwear's origins.

“Knitting has historically been perceived as somewhat kitschy and whimsical, traditionally regarded as a domestic activity associated with women. Therefore, I believe the eccentric essence of knitting is perpetually embedded in the fashion industry,” states Steff Yotka, director of content for SSENSE. “However, in 2024 specifically, individuals are seeking a modicum of joy and a semblance of celebration.”

In the past year, the phrase "quiet luxury" has epitomized refined style: sophisticated, subtle, and costly. What if luxury could be more ostentatious? Knitwear brands are contesting the notion that investing in an heirloom must equate to understated attire. They have adopted vibrant colors, unconventional graphics, and distinctive shapes, all while maintaining superior material and craftsmanship. Ultimately, “what is more opulent than an item crafted specifically for you?” asserts Yotka. “Regardless of its vibrant blue tie-dye!”

Zankov acknowledges that with the initial introduction of the term “quiet luxury,” he felt apprehensive (“we don’t do navy blue,” he explains). However, the designer has concluded that the concept is unviable. The Zankov clientele perceives luxury as a spectrum that extends far beyond neutral tones. “Individuals perceive color as juvenile, cheerful, or whimsical,” he remarks. “It is exuberant and whimsical, yet it can also be profoundly sophisticated.” Consequently, his work and that of The Elder Statesman have garnered cult followings due to their optimistic outlook, rather than in opposition to it.

Driven by an increase in DIY crafting on social media, there has been a growing demand in handmade and small-batch knitwear. Yotka follows other knitters on Instagram who provide a more individualized approach; among her faves are Ella Emhoff and Olivia Rubens. Their patterns resemble works of art rather than mass-produced knits; each piece is unique and allows for creative expression.

Laura and Deanna Fanning, the creative directors of womenswear at the London-based menswear brand Kiko Kostadinov, perceive a broader cultural reflection in the transition from simplicity to a more whimsical aesthetic. “Considering the current state of affairs, it is not unexpected that the aesthetic outcome reflects homogenization, masked by the presence of noble fibers such as cashmere and silk,” Laura conveyed over email. “We believe that a distinctive approach to knitwear, characterized by textures, colors, and techniques, is profoundly humanizing.” One can discern the 'hand' within the artistry.

Zoe Champion, the creative director of the knitwear brand PH5, is utilizing the intimate and personal characteristics of knitwear as a guiding influence for the season. “It is motivating to observe the rekindling of interest in this ancient craft, exemplified by viral videos of Olympic athletes knitting by the pool and the worldwide revival of Stitch ’n Bitch clubs,” she states. The resurgence of enthusiasm for the tactile practice of knitting is fostering a dynamic community that is simultaneously nostalgic and inventive. She observes that this resurgence has inevitably permeated the runways of prominent labels, exemplified by the excitement surrounding Harry Styles’s DIY JW Anderson cardigan, as well as Bottega Veneta, Loewe, and Prada employing knitting techniques on leather and tailored fabrics in unprecedented ways.

Getty Images/ Harry Styles dons a JW Anderson cardigan during his performance.

Following a controversial presidential election that jeopardized reproductive rights, clothing may appear to be a trivial area of focus. In an era where women's personal spaces are frequently encroached upon, creating a daring fashion statement serves as a means to attract attention while also infusing a touch of levity into everyday attire.

The demand for vibrant apparel that eschews seriousness is complemented by a novel perspective on knitwear, driven by technical advancements. Advanced knitting machinery and textile treatments enable designers to integrate artistry with scientific principles.

launchmetrics.com/spotlight - A sweater from Kiko Kostadinov's autumn/winter 2024 collection.

“Currently, it is feasible to discover yarns that incorporate thermo-melting properties or Kevlar,” elucidates Deanna of Kiko Kostadinov. “They can be utilized to fabricate molded 3D shapes or to produce knitted items with a nearly crinoline-like effect.” In their latest collection, the designers employed a delicate Tencel yarn interwoven with sequins to resemble raindrops, complemented by silk hand-knitted hats featuring a fringe-like texture. Audacious selections for a dresser prepared to confront the muted tones and refined tailoring of autumn.

Similarly, PH5 is defying convention by utilizing heat technology yarns to produce knitted activewear, as well as UV-reactive threads that alter color in sunlight.

Zankov, always inclined towards experimentation, envisions the future of knitwear as a domain for innovation, utilizing both hand-knitting and technological advancements. “It constitutes a discourse among the machines, the technicians, ourselves, the hand knitters, and the realm of possibilities,” he states. The outcomes do not consistently align with expectations, however that is an integral aspect of the creative process, is it not? The ultimate design is consistently meant to astonish and please.